Island of Molokai - Travel Tips

Introduction

Exploring the "Most Hawaiian" Island -- Only 38 miles from end to end and just 10 miles wide, Molokai stands like a big green wedge in the blue Pacific. It has an east side, a west side, a backside, and a topside. This long, narrow island is like yin and yang: One side is a flat, austere, arid desert; the other is a lush, green, steepled tropical Eden. Three volcanic eruptions formed Molokai; the last produced the island's "thumb" -- a peninsula jutting out of the steep cliffs of the north shore, like a punctuation mark on the island's geological story.

What To Do

The North Coast--Upland from Kaunakakai the land tilts skyward and turns green, with scented plumeria in yards and glossy coffee trees all in a row, until it blooms into a true forest -- and then abruptly ends at a great precipice, falling 3,250 feet to the sea. The green sea cliffs are creased with five V-shaped crevices so deep that light is seldom seen (to paraphrase a Hawaii poet). The north coast is a remote, forbidding place, with a solitary peninsula -- Kalaupapa -- that was once the home for exiled lepers (it's now a National Historical Park). This region is easy on the eyes but difficult to visit. It lies at a cool elevation, and frequent rain squalls blow in from the ocean. In summer the ocean is calm, providing great opportunities for kayaking, fishing, and swimming, but during the rest of the year, giant waves come rolling onto the shores.

The West End--This end of the island, home to Molokai Ranch, is miles of stark desert terrain bordered by the most beautiful white-sand beaches in Hawaii.

The East End--The area east of Kaunakakai becomes lush, green, and tropical, with golden pocket beaches and a handful of cottages and condos that are popular with thrifty travelers. With this voluptuous landscape comes rain. However, most storms are brief (15-min.) affairs that blow in, dry up, and disappear. Winter is Hawaii's rainy season, so expect more rain from January to March, but even then, the storms usually are brief and the sun comes back out.

Beyond Kaunakakai the two-lane road curves along the coast past piggeries, palm groves, and a 20-mile string of fishponds as well as an ancient heiau (temple), Damien-built churches. The road ends in the glorious Halawa Valley, one of Hawaii's most beautiful valleys.

Dining

Outpost Natural Foods - The healthiest and freshest food on the island is served at the lunch counter of this health-food store, around the corner from the main drag on the ocean side of Kaunakakai town. The tiny store abounds in Molokai papayas, bananas, herbs, potatoes, watermelon, and other local produce. But the real star is the closet-size lunch counter. The salads, burritos, tempeh sandwiches, vegetarian potpie, tofu-spinach lasagna, and mock chicken, turkey, and meatloaf (made from oats, sprouts, seeds, and seasonings) are testament to the fact that vegetarian food need not be boring. A must for health-conscious diners and shoppers.

Hotel Molokai - On the ocean, with a view of Lanai, torches flickering under palm trees, and tiny fairy lights lining the room and the neighboring pool area, the Hotel Molokai's dining room evokes the romance of a South Seas fantasy. It's a casual room, and since its 1999 reopening, provides the only nightlife in Kaunakakai and the most pleasing ambience on the island. Lunch choices consist of the basics; most promising are salads and sandwiches, from roast beef to grilled mahimahi. As the sun sets and the torches are lit for dinner, the menu turns to heavier meats, ribs, fish, and pasta. Try the fresh catch, Korean kalbi ribs, barbecued pork ribs, New York steak, coconut shrimp, or garlic chicken. Temper your expectations of culinary excellence, and you're sure to enjoy a pleasing dinner in an atmosphere that's unequaled on the island.

Kualapuu Cook House - An old wagon in front of a former plantation house marks this down-home eatery, now takeout only. Local residents flock here, not only for the family atmosphere, but for the oversize servings. Breakfasts feature giant omelets, homemade corned beef hash, and, for those who dare, The Works -- buttermilk pancakes, eggs, and home fries (you'll either be fueled for the day or ready to take a nap). Lunch can either be a burger or sandwich or one of their humongous plate lunches of pork katsu or chicken, served up with rice, of course.

 

Entertainment

Hotel Molokai, in Kaunakakai (tel. 808/553-5347), offers live entertainment from local musicians poolside and in the dining. With its South Seas ambience and poolside setting, it's become the island's premier venue for local and visiting entertainers.

Molokai musicians to watch for include Pound for Pound, a powerful group of artists, each over 250 pounds. The members are lead vocalist Jack Stone, Shane Dudoit, Danny Reyes, John Pele, and Alika Lani. As popular off-island as on, they perform Hawaiian, reggae, country, and contemporary Hawaiian numbers, many of them originals. Their CD, 100% Molokai, has become a local legend. Darryl Labrado is a teen phenomenon and the island's rising star. He sings and plays the ukulele to a huge local following. And Pa'a Pono, with its contemporary Hawaiian and reggae sounds, is a familiar name on the local nightlife circuit.

Also in Maunaloa, the lounge at The Lodge at Molokai Ranch (tel. 888/627-8082 or 808/660-2824) offers live music Friday and Saturday, ranging from Hawaiian songs to keiki hula.

 

Entry Requirements

Entry requirements for foreign visitors outside of the United States

Under the Visa Waiver Plan, designed to speed up immigration procedures, citizens of Britain, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and most European countries in possession of full passports do not require visas for trips to the United States of less than ninety days. Visa waiver forms are handed out on incoming planes, and are processed during immigration control at your initial point of arrival on US soil. The form requires details of where you are staying on your first night, and the date you intend to leave the US. You should be able to prove that you have enough money to support yourself while in the US. You may experience difficulties if you admit to being HIV-positive or having AIDS or TB. Part of the form will be attached to your passport, where it must stay until you leave. The same form also covers entry across the land borders with Canada and Mexico.

Citizens of all other countries should contact their local US embassy or consulate for details of current entry requirements. Even those eligible for the visa waiver plan must apply for a free tourist visa if they intend to stay in the US for more than ninety days. Whatever your nationality, visas are not issued to convicted felons or to anybody who owns up to being a communist, fascist or drug dealer.

Money

ATMs-- Hawaii pioneered the use of ATMs more than 2 decades ago, and now they're everywhere. You'll find them at most banks, in supermarkets, at Long's Drugs, and in most resorts and shopping centers. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) are the two most popular networks; check the back of your ATM card to see which network your bank belongs to (most banks belong to both these days).

Traveller's Checks-- Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler's checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency, but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen.

You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

If you choose to carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Emergency

For local emergencies, call tel. 911. For nonemergencies, call the police at tel. 808/553-5355, the fire department at tel. 808/553-5601, or Molokai General Hospital, in Kaunakakai, at tel. 808/553-5331.

Map of Molokai

 

Molokai Weather

 

Weather Averages

Average High Temperatures 80.3°F 26°C 80.9°F 27°C 82.0°F 27°C 83.3°F 28°C 84.4°F 29°C 86.3°F 30°C Average Low Temperatures 63.2°F 17°C 63.0°F 17°C 64.3°F 17°C 64.9°F 18°C 66.7°F 19°C 68.6°F 20°C Average Temperature 71.0°F 21°C 71.0°F 21°C 73.0°F 22°C 74.0°F 23°C 75.0°F 23°C 77.0°F 25°C Average Precipitation 4.2% 2.5% 2.1% 1.3% 1.0% 0.4%

Average High Temperatures 87.0°F 30°C 88.1°F 31°C 88.2°F 31°C 86.6°F 30°C 85.0°F 29°C 82.1°F 27°C Average Low Temperatures 69.8°F 21°C 69.7°F 20°C 70.1°F 21°C 68.6°F 20°C 66.6°F 19°C 64.5°F 18°C Average Temperature 78.0°F 25°C 78.0°F 25°C 79.0°F 26°C 77.0°F 25°C 75.0°F 23°C 73.0°F 22°C Average Precipitation 0.6% 0.7% 0.9% 2.4% 2.9% 4.1%

General Details

Temperature and Climate Zones

Weather on all of the Hawaiian islands is very consistent, with only moderate changes in temperature throughout the year. This is possible due to the year-round warm sea surface temperatures, which keeps the overlying atmosphere warm as well. In practical terms there are only 2 seasons here: the summer months (called Kau in Hawaiian) that extend from May to October and the winter months (Ho'oilo) that run from November to April. The average day-time summer temperature at sea level is 85 degrees F. (29.4 C) while the average day-time winter temperature is 78 degrees (25.6 C). Night-time temperatures are approximately 10 degrees F. lower.

Visitors to Hawaii will find that it is a marvel of nature. As a result of the shielding effect of her volcanic mountains and the differences in weather found at various elevations, there are as many different climate zones here as exist along the entire coast stretching from Alaska to Costa Rica. The islands can be described as an incredibly diverse collection of many micro-environments, each possessing unique weather, plants and animals. To see the full impact of this natural wealth visitors only need to explore the islands by car, or helicopter and they will be struck by the beauty of tropical rain forests, cool alpine regions, stony deserts and sunny beaches, all within the span of just a few short miles.

Rainfall and Storms

Through most of the year Hawaiian weather patterns are effected primarily by high pressure zones in the north Pacific that pump relatively cool, moist trade winds down onto the island's northeastern slopes. This pattern holds true for most of the summer and approximately half of the time in the winter. These winds are forced up-slope by the mountain heights where ultimately their moisture condenses into clouds that produce rain. Most of the rain then falls in the mountains and valleys on the windward (northeastern) side of the islands. It is this weather phenomenon that creates the rich tropical environment of flowers and verdant greens that have made Hawaii famous. The wettest months are from November - March, but these winter rains do not generally disrupt vacationer's plans, since the very localized nature of the weather usually means that if it is raining where you are, there is almost always a sunny spot to be found by a short drive around the coast.

The action of trade winds here means that there is always a cooling breeze. The strength of this wind builds as the heat of the day rises and reaches a peak in the afternoon, only to diminish in the evening and start again the following day. Several times during the year the trade winds will stop completely and the wind will switch around to come out of the south or west, bringing stormy or hot sticky weather. Islanders sometimes call this "Kona" weather, because kona is a polynesian word that means leeward or South, and this points to the direction from which these weather systems arrive. Stormy weather does come to the islands, primarily in the winter and sometimes lingers for several days. Severe storms, however, are not a common occurrence here.

Water and Surf Conditions

Beach-goers will be happy to learn that the temperature of Hawaii's near-shore waters stay comfortable throughout the year. The average year round water temperature is 74 degrees F. (23.3 C), with a summer high of 80 degrees F. (26.7 C). Wave action varies a great deal between winter and summer, and between island coasts. Generally summer waters are very gentle on all beaches. This changes in the winter on many north facing beaches, as storms far out into the Pacific drive ocean swells towards the islands, which build into large breaking waves.

As with island rains, wave conditions are often very localized, so if there is too much surf on your beach, you can usually find calmer water by taking a short drive to a beach that is sheltered from the prevailing surf. Swimmers should keep in mind that h4 currents can make any beach unsafe at any time during the year, but this is particularly true in the winter. When in doubt, simply ask your hotel staff or a local for their recommendations and also watch for warning flags and posted beach conditions.

Hawaii's Mountains and Volcanos

Many visitors to the islands will be drawn to the natural beauty found in the higher elevations such as Kokee on Kauai, or Haleakala on Maui, or Kilauea on the Big Island. In preparing for your trip you'll want to take long pants and several layers of cool weather clothing because the temperature in the higher locations drops 3.5 degrees for every 1,000 feet above sea level that you climb. For example, the summit of Haleakala at an elevation of 10,023 feet can be as much as 30 degrees F. cooler than the resort areas on the coast. Similarly the summit of Kilauea, which is at an elevation of 4,078 feet, can be 14 degrees cooler than the sea level temperature.

You should also be aware that because these peaks rise through the earth's atmosphere, there is less protection at these elevations from the sun's powerful burning rays. This burning effect can be easily masked by the cool temperatures on the mountain, so be sure to use your sun block liberally, and bring your hat and sunglasses.

Fun Things To Do in Molokaii

Attractions & Activities

Molokaii Attractions

St. Joseph's Catholic Church - The afternoon sun strikes St. Joseph's Church with such a bold ray of light that it looks as if God is about to perform a miracle. This little 1876 wood-frame church is one of four Father Damien built "topside" on Molokai. Restored in 1971, the church stands beside a seaside cemetery, where feral cats play under the gaze of a Damien statue amid gravestones decorated with flower leis.

Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove/Kiowea Park - This royal grove -- 1,000 coconut trees on 10 acres planted in 1863 by the island's high chief Kapua'iwa (later, King Kamehameha V) -- is a major roadside attraction. The shoreline park is a favorite subject of sunset photographers and visitors who delight in a hand-lettered sign that warns: DANGER: FALLING COCONUTS. In its backyard, across the highway, stands Church Row: seven churches, each a different denomination -- clear evidence of the missionary impact on Hawaii.

Molokai Museum and Cultural Center - En route to the California Gold Rush in 1849, Rudolph W. Meyer (a German professor) came to Molokai, married the high chieftess Kalama, and began to operate a small sugar plantation near his home. Now on the National Register of Historic Places, this restored 1878 sugar mill, with its century-old steam engine, mule-driven cane crusher, copper clarifiers, and redwood evaporating pan (all in working order), is the last of its kind in Hawaii. The mill also houses a museum that traces the history of sugar growing on Molokai and features special events, such as wine tastings every 2 months, taro festivals, an annual music festival, and occasional classes in ukulele making, loom weaving, and sewing.

Purdy's All-Natural Macadamia Nut Farm (Na Hua O'Ka Aina) - The Purdys have made macadamia-nut buying an entertainment event, offering tours of the homestead and giving lively demonstrations of nutshell-cracking in the shade of their towering trees. The tour of the 70-year-old nut farm explains the growth, bearing, harvesting, and shelling processes, so that by the time you bite into the luxurious macadamia nut, you'll have more than a passing knowledge of its entire life cycle.

 

Molokai Activities

Below are some of our favorite Molokai experiences.

Riding a Mule into a Leper Colony. Don't pass up the opportunity to see this hauntingly beautiful peninsula. Buzzy Sproat's mules go up and down the 3-mile Kalaupapa Trail (with 26 switchbacks) to Molokai's famous leper colony. The views are breathtaking: You'll see the world's highest sea cliffs (over 300 stories tall) and waterfalls plunging thousands of feet into the ocean. If you're afraid of heights, catch the views from the Kalaupapa Lookout.

Venturing into the Garden of Eden. Drive the 30 miles along Molokai's East End. Take your time. Stop to smell the flowers and pick guavas by the side of the road. Pull over for a swim. At the end of the road, stand on the beach at Halawa Valley and see Hawaii as it must have looked in A.D. 650, when the first people arrived in the islands.

Celebrating the Ancient Hula. Hula is the heartbeat of Hawaiian culture, and Molokai is its birthplace. Although most visitors to Hawaii never get to see the real thing, it's possible to see it here.

Strolling the Sands at Papohaku. Go early, when the tropical sun isn't so fierce, and stroll this 3-mile stretch of unspoiled golden sand on Molokai's West End. It's one of the longest beaches in Hawaii. The big surf and rip tides make swimming somewhat risky, but Papohaku is perfect for walking, beachcombing, and, in the evening, sunset watching.

Traveling Back in Time on the Pepeopae Trail. This awesome hike takes you through the Molokai Forest Reserve and back a few million years in time. Along the misty trail (actually a boardwalk across the bog), expect close encounters of the botanical kind: mosses, sedges, violets, lichens, and knee-high ancient ohias.

Snorkeling Among Clouds of Butterfly Fish. The calm waters off Murphy (Kumimi) Beach, on the East End, are perfect for snorkelers. Just don your gear and head to the reef, where you'll find lots of exotic tropical fish, including long-nosed butterfly fish, saddle wrasses, and convict tangs.

Kayaking Along the North Shore. This is the Hawaii of your dreams: waterfalls thundering down sheer cliffs, remote sand beaches, miles of tropical vegetation, and the sounds of the sea splashing on your kayak and the wind whispering in your ear. The best times to go are late March and early April, or in summer, especially August to September, when the normally galloping ocean lies down flat.

Posting a Nut. Why send a picturesque postcard to your friends and family back home when you can send a fresh coconut? The Hoolelua Post Office will supply the free coconuts, if you'll supply the postage fee.

Health & Safety Links

Travelers' Health, US Department of Health and Human Resources

Flight Overview Molokai

Despite its proximity to both Oahu and Maui, Molokai has earned itself a reputation as being hard to reach.

However, although locals complain that because the airport is too small to cope with large aircraft it can be difficult to fly in or out for the weekend, tourists prepared to be flexible are unlikely to experience problems in reserving a flight.

Molokai's main airport, outside Ho'olehua in the center of the island, is currently served by direct flights from Oahu and Maui only, though it's easy enough to connect with flights to the other Hawaiian islands. Aloha Air offers the most daily flights: eight from Honolulu and two from Kahului on Maui. Hawaiian Airlines has two daily services from Honolulu.

Several lesser operators fly twin-engine planes to Molokai. Pacific Wings (tel 567-6814 on Molokai, 248-7700 on Maui, or 1-888/575-4546, www.pacificwings.com) operates one or two scheduled flights each day to and from both Honolulu and Kahului on Maui. In addition, two charter companies provide on-demand flights. The endearing Molokai Air Shuttle (tel 545-4988 on Oahu, 567-6847 on Molokai) flies between Honolulu and Molokai for $60 round-trip - it's such a no-frills outfit that as you take off one passenger has to sit next to the pilot and hold the door open to provide some cool air (there's air-conditioning). Paragon Air (tel 1-800/428-1231) connects Molokai with any airport on Maui or Lanai.

Non-stop, direct or connecting flights are available to Hawaii from all major and regional airports in North America. From cities on the West Coast, the flight time to Honolulu is approximately 4 ½ - 5 hours. From Chicago, non-stop flights to Honolulu are 8 hours, and from New York, non-stop flights to Honolulu are approximately 10 ½ hours.

During the past several years, more non-stop flights have become available to Hawaii's "Neighbor Islands" of Maui, Kauai and the Big Island of Hawaii from cities along the West Coast. Inter-island flights to all Neighbor Islands depart regularly from Honolulu International Airport and flight times run just 20 - 35 minutes, making island hopping simple and convenient.

Our Airline Partners Serving Hawaii:

American Trans Air
Delta Airlines
United Airlines
Hawaiian Airlines
American Airlines
Aloha Airlines
Horizon Airlines