Big Island of Hawaii - Kailua-Kona

Big Island of Hawaii

What to See - Kailua-Kona

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Residents of other districts on the Big Island often compare Kailua-Kona to
O`ahu’s Waikiki, criticizing the traffic and sizeable population (a “whopping” 9,870 people at last census). But everything is relative, and Kailua-Kona is a far cry from the neon glitz, crowds and skyscrapers of Waikiki. It’s an actual community where people live, and the natural beauty, particularly along Alii Drive, is undeniable.

A walking tour with Kona Historical Society ( 323-3222) is highly recommended, as it will enhance your experience exponentially. Essentially, it is a two-hour crash course in Hawaiian language, culture, history, traditions, art, flora and fauna, local sights and even the sovereignty movement. These Hawaiian guides know their stuff. Donna is usually the guide for independent travelers, and she fires off information like a machine gun, peppering it with lots of jokes. It was impressive to watch her engage three generations of the same family, kids, parents and grandparents. “I doubt I’ll remember it all, but I’m sure enjoying it!” the grandmother said.

The tour starts near the Kailua Pier, heading to Ahu`ena Heiau, then looping back to the air-conditioned lobby of the King Kamehameha Hotel (the hotel also has a tour of the art and historical artifacts there). The group heads to Moku`aikaua Church and the grounds of Hulihe`e Palace (there is an additional charge to enter the palace). If you want to enhance your vacation with cultural understanding, take this tour and support a group striving to preserve knowledge and spread awareness of Kona and Hawaii. Tours are $20, and reservations are required (call at least 24 hours in advance), as there must be at least three participants to a tour. Times vary.

Hulihe`e Palace (75-5718 Alii Dr, 329-1877, www.huliheepalace.org).
Many visitors probably pass through Kailua-Kona without realizing that there is a palace right on Alii Drive. This is a shame, because Hulihe`e Palace was a retreat for Hawaiian royalty for generations (ali`i means “royalty,” hence the name of the street). Built in 1838, the two-story palace is a chance to see how the ali`i lived and to learn some of the history of Hawaii’s kings and queens.

The palace is not ostentatious, but full of symbols of the past, such as kahili, the yellow feathered staffs that acted as the royalty’s standard; a flag bearer carried them into battle. There are several weapons, including a 22-foot spear that belonged to King Kamehameha the Great. Much of the furniture and other artifacts were sold by King Kalakaua in the 1880s, but the women of the house kept meticulous records of what was being sold, and most have been recollected by the Daughters of Hawaii, who now maintain the museum and can give interesting historical talks as you begin your tour.

In addition to a view of Kailua Bay from the lanai, the second story has perhaps the most impressive furniture in the palace, like the koa bed frame, and a table with stars inlaid with 20 different Hawaiian woods that was handmade for Queen Lili`uokalani. This is a worthy stop that costs less than the price of a frozen daiquiri, so have a look! Admission $6, seniors $4. Open 9 am-4 pm Mon-Fri, 10 am-4 pm Sat-Sun

Moku`aikaua Church (75-5713 Alii Dr across from Hulihe`e Palace, 329-1589, www. mokuaikaua.org ) .Founded in April of 1820, this was the first Christian church in the state. It’s an arresting stone edifice – lava and mortar –with a steeple 112 feet high, making it the tallest structure in Kailua-Kona (as we said, it’s a far cry from the skyscrapers of Waikiki). Visiting the church is free, and worth a stop to enjoy the native wood interior (o`hia pillars and koa pews), with simple ceiling fans and a few displays in the back. One is a model of the brig Thaddeus, the 85-foot ship that carried the church’s founding missionaries from Boston, on a 163-day journey around Cape Horn. Talk about close quarters! There’s also a fascinating “Micronesian Stick Chart,” an ancient navigational aid that shows currents, swell patterns and drift lines around the Marshall Islands. On either side of the altar are kahili, the feather standards used for Hawaiian ali`i (royalty). This usage symbolizes “Jesus is king.” The church still holds Sunday services at 8 am and 10:30 am (the latter features the choir). Hymns are sung in Hawaiian.

Ahu`ena Heiau
The rock walls and replicated thatch hut and ki`i statues at Ahu`ena Heiau, across from Kailua Pier, mark the settlement where King Kamehameha lived at the end of his life, from 1812 to 1819. Because it was home to the king, it was the capital of Hawaii during those years as well. When he died, a kahuna secretly disposed of his remains, then killed himself, leaving the king’s last resting place a mystery. Admission is free.

Kailua Pier
The town pier is the departure point for a variety of water tours, like boat trips and parasailing. The lava flat that runs near and just to the right of the pier is Hawaii’s “Plymouth Rock,” where missionaries first landed on April 4, 1820. Today, the pier area is the start and finish line for the Ironman Triathlon. It’s also the unloading point for the hordes of cruise ship visitors that arrive at least twice a week.

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